So here I am at the beach. The boys totally hooked me up with a board and a wetsuit…it was freaking cold being that it’s september and all. Another point is that there was some tidal thing going on and the waves were rough, I mean ROUGH! I almost drowned getting out in the water and my body has the bruises to prove that getting smacked around by a surf board is no joke. I got dumped so many times it was laughable. Mike was a total saint and uber patient with me; he finally got me riding some waves in the white water (alas, the sets were too intense to even make it out to the lineup). The sensation was amazing, almost like you’re floating. I def want to try again, but with a bit warmer weather and waves that are slightly tamer.
